Busy Kuala Lumpur on peninsular Malaysia is considered its capital, but across the South China Sea and on the island of Borneo lies a unique city called Sibu. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
London, Paris and Bangkok are tourist destinations that also serve as capital cities and are on most people’s checklists because they offer them a key holiday benefit – bragging rights. But look beyond the capitals’ skyline: the crowds thin, items are cheaper and curated events promote authentic experiences. In Malaysia’s case, bustling Kuala Lumpur may rank as the capital and attract the most tourists, but it may be more rewarding to explore the city of Sibu, located on the island of Borneo, across the South China Sea.
The Rejang River flows through Sibu and tourists can go boating on it. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
Borneo, the world’s third largest island after Greenland and New Guinea, was under the rule of the Sultan of Brunei until the 18th century. By the time colonisation ended, Brunei’s territory had shrunk to a speck and the rest of the island was divided between Indonesia’s Kalimantan state and Malaysia’s Sabah and Sarawak states, with Sibu falling under the latter.
Scoot, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines, now flies from the Asian financial hub of Sibu; its first flight launched on June 5. The budget airline flies non-stop from the Lion City to Sibu three times a week.
The moment one steps out of Sibu Airport, the visitor gets a unique feeling. Across the road is a patch of greenery that is reminiscent of the lush landscapes of many South Indian states. Sarawak, being a tropical region, is dotted with rainforests, and Sibu’s topography is no different.
However, the similarities far outweigh the differences. The population density is low, so that people and buildings are few and far between. The roads, crowded with large pick-up vehicles and small-capacity scooters, are driven by relaxed motorists who have no hesitation in stopping at red lights, and the sound of a horn is rarely heard. Business establishments welcome customers with dedicated open parking spaces reminiscent of those seen in Hollywood movies.
Morning view at a cafe in Sibu. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
Sarawak, Malaysia’s largest state, is dominated by ethnic tribes and Malay people. Sibu, with its strong Fuzhou presence – people who came from China looking for work – is a separate state. However, the food here is a mix of everything. Laksa, a noodle soup with meat and coconut milk, has its roots in China, while midin, a jungle fern cooked in fish broth, is native to Sarawak.
Laksa is a noodle soup made with meat, fish and coconut milk. | Photo credit: Aditya Narayan
Interestingly, Sibu’s culinary traditions also draw from India. Upon visiting one of the longhouses, which are stilt-built buildings with a backyard where the indigenous Iban population lives, visitors are greeted with welcome snacks, which are Paniyaram (known by the same name) from Tamil Nadu and Achappam (called Kuih Roj) from Kerala.
Cooked meat, mainly pork, sold at Sibu’s night market. | Photo credit: Aditya Narayan
A vendor selling pakoras at a night market in Sibu. | Photo credit: Aditya Narayan
A variety of meat dishes are available at Sibu’s night market. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
Sightseeing in Sibu includes boating along the Rajang River and strolling through the night market. Here, everything from cooked meat and dumplings to freshly cut fruits and wine is sold. However, those who want to explore their culinary skills should head to the Sibu Central Market during the daytime to buy raw meat and vegetables.
Sibu Central Market sells everything from meat to vegetables. | Photo credit: Aditya Narayan
Mee sua, a type of thin wheat noodle, is also part of Sibu’s tradition. There is a small group of people in the town who have been engaged in the business of hand-made noodles for generations. Visiting one such enterprise gives a glimpse of the process of making noodles by hand. It is interesting to watch the transformation of a pile of dough into thin strands of noodles.
Mee sua is a type of thin wheat noodle that is part of the Sibu tradition. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
Sibu is home to a small group of people who have been in the handmade noodles business for generations. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
It’s a fascinating sight to see a pile of dough transform into thin strands of noodles. | Photo Credit: Aditya Narayan
Mee sua noodles left out to dry. | Photo courtesy: Aditya Narayan
The city has this and more. After all, if losing yourself is not the priority, and the joy of finding something is the priority, then Sibu is a haven for such souls.
The writer was in Sibu at the invitation of Scoot.
